Masajes en Chiang Mai: las manos de una presa
Sesión de masajes. BBC.

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Antes de visitar Tailandia, la recomendación era siempre la misma: probar sus masajes. Y un poco por curiosidad, nuestra cronista se sumergió en un viaje íntimo al centro de la prisión de Chiang Mai. Y allí, mientras las vértebras se acomodaban una a una, comenzaron a salir a la luz sus sentimientos. No se pierdan esta historia de Alexandra Correa, en la voz de Lula Krasnov.

«Estoy por darme mi primer masaje y es en una prisión», pensé mientras cruzaba el umbral de entrada. Era un arco de flores blancas, de pétalos grandes con forma de campana y vegetación verde, tenía algunos corazones colgando con agradecimientos de clientes hacia las presas, había un pequeño jardín, para no más de ocho personas, una fuente de agua, mesas y sillas hechas de troncos de árboles, olía a incienso, algo habitual en estos lares para espantar a los demonios. Nada que me hiciera imaginar que allí había personas que cumplían una condena.

Estábamos en Tailandia, más precisamente en el norte, en la turística Chiang Mai.


Es mi primera vez de todo. Pablo, mi novio, ya conoce Tailandia, Chiang Mai y casi todo el recorrido que estamos haciendo y ya pasó varios calendarios lejos de su tribu porque vivió dos años fuera de Argentina. Yo soy debutante en pasar tanto tiempo lejos de casa y también debutante en estar tan cerca de mí.

Antes de viajar a Chiang Mai, Pablo me dijo que indagara qué quería hacer. Busqué en San Google lo típico —«qué ver y hacer en Chiang Mai»— y se repetía una constante: los masajes. Ya había comprobado en otras ciudades de Tailandia que todas ofrecían masajes a los turistas y que se trataban de un arte. Uno que dominan muy bien y del cual los tailandeses se sienten muy orgullosos. Mi intriga fue en aumento. No hubo conversación donde alguien no recomendara o hiciera algún comentario sobre el tópico «masajes». Incluso había conocidos que ya sabían diferenciar masajes «serios» de los que esconden un «final feliz» (tener relaciones sexuales con la masajista). Llegué a pensar que yo solo quería uno para formar parte de la lista de quienes dicen «estuve ahí e hice lo que se debe hacer».

A esta intriga se le sumó la culpa. Cuando se viaja de mochilero o con presupuesto ajustado, todo lo que salga de la trilogía de alimento, alojamiento y transporte, es un gasto. Y si ese gasto se hace, debemos estar convencidos de que valió cada centavo. Así que la elección sobre «dónde hacerse un masaje» se convirtió en una responsabilidad.


Hasta ese momento en el viaje nunca me había interesado el tópico «masajes». En mi mente, que tiene huellas de época de escasez, eso es algo que solo hacen quienes tienen tiempo y plata. Y en mi casa esas siempre fueron dos cosas que no abundaban. Ni siquiera cuando trabajaba mucho y bien me di ese lujo. En alguna parte de mí, esa actividad seguía vedada para algunos y permitida para otros. Quizás por eso mi interés mutó en curiosidad cuando, en medio de mi búsqueda, encontré «masajes en la cárcel de mujeres de Chiang Mai».

El programa funciona desde 2002, para que las mujeres que no cometieron delitos graves (hurto, estafas, prostitución, etcétera) puedan encontrar una salida laboral y reincorporarse en la sociedad. También funciona como un ahorro, ya que la plata que generan se les entrega una vez que salen. El programa fue implementado por una directora de la cárcel (Naowarat Thanasrisuthara) que ahora tiene su propio centro de masajes, uno de los más famosos en Chiang Mai. La idea nació al buscar la raíz del problema que sufrían las mujeres que cometen delitos nuevamente. El patrón siempre era el mismo: esposo/padre ausente o preso y ellas sin posibilidades de encontrar un trabajo por la desconfianza que genera una expresidiaria.


El escenario carcelístico que me imaginaba eran puertas blindadas, policías con uniformes de color negro o gris, poca luz, la suficiente para ver mujeres amontonadas con caras hostiles, de enojo y tristeza, esa que se ignora para que no se haga más grande, y mucho olor a cigarrillo.

Llegamos a un jardín interno tras atravesar la vegetación de un verde enérgico como el pasto sintético. Frente a la entrada, una oficina pequeña con lugar solo para un escritorio y dos mujeres que nos dieron la bienvenida juntando las palmas de las manos haciendo una reverencia: vestían camisa y pantalón de un color rojo y bordo suaves, olían a la mañana en un bosque de pinos después de llover, llevaban rodetes y, como todo Tailandia —sospecho a esta altura, después de 20 días recorriendo este país—, sonreían.

Me quedé sorprendida como árbol petrificado. Pablo, muy natural, se sacó los zapatos y entró. Nos dieron turno una hora más tarde, el lugar era agradable para esperar ahí y tenía wifi, así que aproveché para subir historias y no conectar con mis nervios y ansiedad.

Entramos a un cuarto con luz muy tenue, iluminado por el sol que se filtraba por algunas ventanas esmeriladas y alguna luz encendida que permitía ver por dónde caminar, la gente que se encontraba allí, los asientos y las camillas, pero dando cierto aire de calidez e intimidad. Olía a frescura, como si alguien hubiese destapado un frasco con mentol y eucalipto. Pasamos una especie de pasillo que formaban los sillones de ambos lados donde hacen foot massage. El lugar no parecía muy grande, pero se notaba que todo estaba bien distribuido y decorado, de forma tal que nadie se acordara de que allí funcionaba una cárcel. Los únicos indicios eran los alambres de púas que se extendían en la medianera de la pared que se podía observar en el jardín de espera. 

Pensé mucho en ello durante todo el tiempo que pasé en ese lugar: en las condenas, en la forma que todos tenemos de hacer distinta nuestras vidas, en qué hacemos con nuestra libertad. Voy a pensar en mi familia, en mi mamá sobre todo. No es masajista, pero desde chica recuerdo que le elogiaban sus manos de piel fina, color aceituna, pequeñas pero huesudas. A las manos de mi mamá se le notan las venas y me dan la sensación de fuerza, no de la que puede cargar bolsas de cemento sino de la que puede cargar los restos de una familia que no fue. Ella es de estatura pequeña, como para poner en la mesita de luz, trigueña, pelo negro azabache (incluso hoy que ya es el turno de las canas) ondulado —«es rebelde como yo», dice con orgullo—, los rasgos de su cara no son delicados, dan la sensación de que se moldearon con arcilla. El parecido físico con las tailandesas es demasiado. Tanto que cuando se lo dije a Pablo me respondió que pensaba lo mismo, pero no quiso decirlo para no ponerme triste. También recuerdo a mi mamá por una frase que me decía y que volvió a mi cabeza en este lugar. Durante una época de nuestras vidas en que éramos carentes de todo —sobre todo de afectos—, mi mamá me dijo que yo la había salvado. Yo tendría unos 6 u 8 años y no le di mucha importancia. Cuando fui creciendo, esas mismas palabras tomaron otra forma, otro lugar en mi vida. Y en el rompecabezas de mi historia familiar, esa frase fue una pieza que dio sentido a todo lo demás.

Entendí que la cárcel puede ser un lugar, una persona, nuestros cuerpos, una vida que no queremos. Entendí que mi mamá puso en mí una fuerza que lleva ella adentro hasta el día de hoy: yo solo fui la chispa que encendió ese fuego.

Sin querer, tracé un paralelo entre estas mujeres y dónde podría estar mi mamá hoy si yo no la hubiera «salvado». ¿Qué delito cometieron? ¿Qué pasó en sus vidas que no tuvieron ese «alguien» que las salvara como a mi mamá?


La señora que iba a ser mi masajista se acercó al extremo de la cama donde yo aguardaba. Estaba vestida de un violeta claro, llevaba pantalón y una especie de casaca, como los médicos. Se sentía suave su ropa y olía a jazmín, mi flor preferida. Me sonrió desde el extremo de la cama, juntó las manos e hizo una reverencia. Le sonreí y, no sé por qué, se me empañaron los ojos. Empezó por mis pies, sentí sus manos, sus dedos intentaban hacer sonar los dedos de mis pies. Su piel de color aceituna (como mi mamá, pensé otra vez) era suave y, aunque tirante, se notaba que era una persona mayor. No quería llorar, me sentía ansiosa y alegre por la experiencia, pero en todo el tiempo que duraron los masajes yo fui un vaivén de sentimientos y recuerdos. No imaginaba que un simple masaje pudiera disparar las imágenes de mi mamá y sus cuidados, sus esfuerzos porque no nos faltara nada (soy la menor de tres hermanos), sus tardes ausentes para hacer horas extras, su discurso repetido que estudiar era todo lo que nos podía dejar y su frase eterna: «Vos me salvaste la vida».

Me emocionan siempre las mujeres que pasaron por algún calvario y pudieron encontrar la forma de superarlo. Creo que, más que por ser ejemplo de superación, porque sirven de hilo conductor hacia mi propia historia.

Y mientras esta señora me pidió que me diera vuelta porque se iba a encargar de mi espalda, yo agradecí en silencio y ya no pude contener las lágrimas. No era acá ni ahora donde el pasado tenía que venir. Cruzamos miradas con Pablo, que estaba sonriente en la cama de al lado. Me preguntó bajito si estaba todo bien, y yo asentí. Pensé en las profesiones que estas mujeres encuentran cuando quedan al margen del camino. Pensé en esas manos que me trataban con amor y firmeza, si ya eran así antes, si entre rejas se puede aprender con amor. Pensé, si cuando tuvieron oportunidad, si es que la tuvieron, hubieran elegido ser masajistas. ¿Mi mamá habrá querido ser costurera siempre? ¿Quién le enseñó? ¿Cómo fue su primer día? Por momentos cerraba los ojos, quizás así ahuyentaba a mis fantasmas. La señora me pidió que me diera vuelta y me pusiera de frente, intuí que estábamos por terminar. Es paradójico porque uno de los últimos masajes fue una especie de abrazo que nos dimos para aflojar mi espalda y fue justo lo que necesitaba. Cerré los ojos, junté mis manos y le agradecí, casi no pude decir nada, menos en inglés y mucho menos en thai.


Cuando estudiaba antropología, uno de los autores que más me gustaba era Foucault: él hablaba del ejercicio y de la circulación del poder. Me gustaba mucho por dos cosas: por entender que el poder nunca estaba en un solo lugar depositado, sino que era algo que circulaba y que todos en algún momento podíamos ejercerlo, y lo otro, porque hablaba de las estrategias de resistencia que siempre desarrollamos como respuesta ante el poder que reprime.

Me gusta imaginar a estas mujeres empoderadas cuando están ejerciendo como masajistas, en contrapartida de lo que imagino debe ser un lugar oscuro, caluroso, solitario como una cárcel. Me gusta imaginar que yo, durante esa hora, fui su estrategia de resistencia para sacarle la lengua a una sociedad y a un mundo que nos deja como barquito de papel en medio del mar. 

Me gusta imaginar que fui un poquito de esa misma fuerza que fui para mi mamá, hace algunos años atrás.

Temas relacionados

#Familia #Madre #Viaje #Angustia #Cárcel

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Orsai Wilbert 02:07:30 - 20/06/2020

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Orsai Melina 00:57:57 - 03/06/2020

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Orsai Martin 03:20:51 - 02/06/2020

Hermoso!!